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New Standard (men's)
About A.P.C.’s jeans: The single most influential raw selvedge brand of the past 20 years. Petit New Standard, New Standard, Mid Standard — sourced from a Japanese mill.
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Our take
The New Standard is the most influential raw selvedge jean of the past 15 years and the silhouette most people picture when they think 'A.P.C. denim'. It ships bone-rigid in 13.5oz Japanese selvedge, and owners commit to the ritual: months of wear before the first wash, with high-contrast personalised fades developing over a year. The single most-repeated piece of advice is about sizing — A.P.C. famously runs slim and small, so most people size up one or two from their usual, and the seat reads tight until broken in. Within the raw-denim world the construction is honest rather than ostentatious.
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The details
- Material
- 13.5oz raw indigo selvedge from a Japanese mill; chain-stitched, button fly.
- Fit
- Straight through thigh and calf, mid-rise. Famously slim and small — most owners size up one or two. The seat is tight until broken in; rigid, so no give to rely on.
- Quality
- Honest premium construction — selvedge cloth, chain-stitched hem, leather patch. Built for years if you commit to caring for them.
- Best for
- Anyone committed to the raw-denim ritual who wants the genre-defining straight silhouette.
- Care
- Wear unwashed 3–6 months minimum, then cold soak inside-out and air dry; the fades are the point and define the jean.
How A.P.C. jeans hold up overall
Owners report the raw pairs — cut from 14.5 oz. Japanese selvedge — start stiff and snug, stretch to fit with wear, and fade into high-contrast patterns documented in multi-year wear logs on denim sites. Reviewers rate the fit and construction well for the price, and the line is a common first raw-denim purchase. Long-term wear posts also show front-pocket and crotch repairs along the way, and sizing differs from model to model across the range.
- Strengths
- The raw Japanese selvedge fades into defined, high-contrast wear patterns and conforms to the wearer over years of use.
- Watch out for
- The break-in is stiff, sizing varies between models, and multi-year wear logs show crotch and front-pocket repairs.
- Sizing
- Reviewers advise buying raw pairs one to two inches smaller than your usual waist because the denim stretches, and note that sizes differ from model to model.
About A.P.C.'s jeans line as a whole. Sources: APC New Standard Jeans Review - Classicest · A.P.C. Women's Jeans Review: Is Their Denim Worth $220? · Fade of the Day - A.P.C. Petit Standard (4 Years, 4 Washes, 1 Soak) - Heddels
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