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Tellason vs A.P.C.: which jean wins?

Both land in the premium tier — the Tellason Stock Straight (men's) at $240, the A.P.C. New Standard (men's) at $245, just $5 apart. Here's how they stack up, head to head.

Stock Straight (men's)
Premium tier
Tellason
Stock Straight (men's)
$240
New Standard (men's)
Premium tier
A.P.C.
New Standard (men's)
$245
TellasonA.P.C.
Price$240$245
Material13.5oz raw selvedge denim (Cone Mills-style); cut and sewn in the USA.13.5oz raw indigo selvedge from a Japanese mill; chain-stitched, button fly.
FitStraight through thigh and calf, mid-rise. True to size; rigid cotton, so the fit molds and shifts as it breaks in.Straight through thigh and calf, mid-rise. Famously slim and small — most owners size up one or two. The seat is tight until broken in; rigid, so no give to rely on.
QualityPremium American construction — reinforced where it matters, sturdy hardware, honest cloth.Honest premium construction — selvedge cloth, chain-stitched hem, leather patch. Built for years if you commit to caring for them.
Best forAmerican-made raw selvedge, quiet design, and anyone who values transparency over brand cachet.Anyone committed to the raw-denim ritual who wants the genre-defining straight silhouette.
CareWear unwashed 3–6 months, then cold soak inside-out and air dry; fades develop personally over the first year.Wear unwashed 3–6 months minimum, then cold soak inside-out and air dry; the fades are the point and define the jean.

Tellason ($240) and A.P.C.'s New Standard ($245) are both 13.5oz raw selvedge straight jeans within $5 of each other. The split is sourcing and sizing: Tellason is American-made with transparent sourcing and true-to-size cut; the New Standard is Japanese-mill selvedge, a genre benchmark, but famously slim and small.

Tellason wins on

true-to-size fit, USA cut-and-sewn, transparent sourcing, reinforced where it matters, no sizing guesswork

A.P.C. wins on

genre-defining silhouette, Japanese selvedge cloth, chain-stitched hem, button fly, proven track record

Which should you buy?

Five dollars apart and same cloth weight, so this rides on fit and what you're paying for. Buy the Tellason if you want raw selvedge that fits true and full transparency on where it came from. Pay the extra $5 for the New Standard only if you specifically want the benchmark A.P.C. silhouette and you're ready to size up one or two and break in a tight seat. If true-to-size matters and the badge doesn't, Tellason wins.

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