A.P.C. vs 3sixteen: which jean to buy, and when
Both land in the premium tier: the A.P.C. New Standard (men's) at $245, the 3sixteen CT-100x Classic Tapered (men's) at $245. Here is how they stack up, head to head.
| A.P.C. | 3sixteen | |
|---|---|---|
| Price | $245 | $245 |
| Material | 13.5oz raw indigo selvedge from a Japanese mill; chain-stitched, button fly. | 14.5oz indigo selvedge from Kuroki Mills, Japan; one-wash (lightly pre-shrunk), sanforized. |
| Fit | Straight through thigh and calf, mid-rise. Famously slim and small — most owners size up one or two. The seat is tight until broken in; rigid, so no give to rely on. | Tapered: regular through the seat, slim through the calf, narrowing at the ankle. True to size after the first wash thanks to the one-wash treatment. |
| Quality | Honest premium construction — selvedge cloth, chain-stitched hem, leather patch. Built for years if you commit to caring for them. | Premium construction — reinforced stress points, sturdy hardware, heavy cloth that's a step up from peer brands at the price. |
| Best for | Anyone committed to the raw-denim ritual who wants the genre-defining straight silhouette. | A tapered raw-denim silhouette with real structure, and anyone wanting heavier cloth than the standard 13.5oz raw. |
| Care | Wear unwashed 3–6 months minimum, then cold soak inside-out and air dry; the fades are the point and define the jean. | Cold wash inside-out and infrequently; air dry. The one-wash treatment means a faster, more forgiving break-in than fully raw denim. |
Both A.P.C.'s New Standard and 3sixteen's CT-100x sit at $245, so price is identical. The New Standard is 13.5oz raw selvedge in the genre-defining straight cut that runs slim and rigid; the CT-100x is heavier 14.5oz Kuroki selvedge, one-washed so it fits true, in a tapered cut with reinforced construction.
- The case for A.P.C.
- genre-defining straight cut, Japanese selvedge, chain-stitched hem, button fly, benchmark reputation
- The case for 3sixteen
- heavier 14.5oz cloth, true-to-size after wash, tapered structured leg, reinforced stress points, punches above price
VerdictThe pick
Same $245, so this is cloth and fit, not money. Buy the New Standard if you want the canonical straight silhouette and you're fine sizing up and breaking in a tight, rigid seat. Buy the CT-100x if you want heavier cloth, more reinforcement, a tapered leg, and a jean that fits true right after the first wash instead of a sizing gamble. For most people who want predictable fit and more denim, the 3sixteen is the easier buy.
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